Bubbles in exterior paint are one of two different problems: water pushing the paint off from behind, or the top coat trapping heat or solvent as it dried. They look the same from the ground. One small cut tells you which you have, and the fix is different for each.
Paint blisters for one of two reasons, and cutting one open tells you which. If there is bare wall under the blister, often damp, or water comes out, it is a moisture blister: water is getting into the wall or through it from inside and pushing the paint off from behind. That will keep happening until the water source is fixed. If there are older coats of paint under the blister, it is usually a heat or solvent blister: the top coat was applied in direct sun, on a hot surface, or too thick, and skinned over before it could dry. That is an application problem, fixed by scraping, sanding, and repainting in the right conditions. Either way, painting over the blisters does not work.
Pick a blister, slice it across with a sharp utility knife, and peel back the skin. Bare wall underneath (stucco, wood, masonry or primer), especially if it feels damp or water comes out, means moisture is pushing the paint off from behind. An older coat of paint underneath, dry, means the blister formed in the newest coat as it dried. Check a few blisters on different parts of the wall. Occasionally both are going on at once.
A moisture blister is the wall telling you it is wet. The water has to come from somewhere:
Until the water source is fixed, new paint on that wall blisters again, usually in the same place.
Paint dries from the surface down. If the surface skins over too fast, whatever is still evaporating underneath gets trapped and pushes the new film up into bubbles. That happens when:
Cut blisters open in several places. Moisture blisters send you looking for the water. Heat blisters send you back to how and when the wall was painted.
For moisture blisters: repair the caulking, joints, stucco, flashing or drainage letting water in, and deal with interior humidity where that is the cause.
Remove every blister and any loose paint around it, feather the edges so the repair does not show, and give the wall time to dry out completely.
A primer suited to the surface, then finish coats at normal thickness, in shade, on a dry wall, with a dry forecast. On masonry and stucco, a coating that lets the wall breathe.
Exterior painting is a self-performed FAIME scope, together with the caulking, sealant and stucco repair work that moisture blisters usually need first, on houses, storefronts and large commercial buildings across Toronto, North York, Scarborough, Vaughan, Richmond Hill, Markham, Mississauga, Brampton and the wider GTA.
On our Vaughan commercial envelope project, the repairs, sealant joints and window caulking were all done before two full coats of paint went on, which is the order that stops moisture blisters coming back. If your paint is flaking rather than bubbling, read why exterior paint peels.
Either moisture is pushing the paint off from behind, or the top coat trapped heat or solvent as it dried. Cut a blister open: bare, often damp wall underneath means moisture; older dry paint underneath usually means a heat or solvent blister from painting in direct sun, on a hot or damp surface, or too thick.
No. The paint around a blister has already lost its bond, and with moisture blisters the water is still getting in. Scrape and sand off every blister and any loose paint, fix the water source if there is one, let the wall dry fully, prime, then repaint in the right conditions.
Heat blisters sometimes flatten a little as the paint cures, but the film has still lost its bond and usually cracks and flakes later. Moisture blisters come back for as long as water keeps reaching the back of the paint.
That pattern usually points to moisture from inside: warm, humid air moving out through the wall and condensing behind the exterior paint. Better ventilation inside is part of the fix, along with repairing and repainting the outside with a coating suited to the wall.
It depends on the product, so follow the manufacturer's range, but the bigger risk is surface temperature, not air temperature. A wall in direct afternoon sun can be far hotter than the air. Painting in shade and following the shade around the building avoids most heat blistering.
Yes. Exterior painting, and the caulking, sealant and stucco repairs that moisture blisters usually need first, are self-performed FAIME scopes across Toronto, Vaughan, Richmond Hill, Markham, Mississauga, Brampton and the wider GTA. FAIME is WSIB Active under Class G5, carries $2M general liability and backs its workmanship with a 2-year warranty. Site visits are free.
We come out, look at the actual condition, and put the scope in writing. No pricing is given before a site visit — and we will tell you if the work does not need doing.
$2M general liability · Active WSIB (Class G5) · 2-year workmanship warranty